The original company was started in 1923 by Raymond E. DeWalt is a registered trademark of Black & Decker (U.S.) Inc., a subsidiary of Stanley Black & Decker. (The time or money saved can buy a lot of reward or convenience elsewhere.DeWalt Industrial Tool Company (stylized as DᴇWALT) is an American worldwide manufacturer of power tools and hand tools for the construction, manufacturing and woodworking industries, as well as home craftspeople. Even though having two battery systems is less convenient than having one, it is not very inconvenient, and it is by far the cheapest way to have a safe cordless riveter. Given the expense of options 4 and 5, the costs in time and/or safety of options 2 and 3, and that 6672 has the funds to consider option 2, I think that their best choice is to give up on total standardization for their cordless power tools. Option 3 is disappointing and dissatisfactory. It’s also probably not cheaper than option 1, especially if student or mentor time is worth $. We all agree that option 2 is difficult to execute safely. Option 5, extreme though it is, might actually be cheaper than option 4. However, that is a lot of money for a cordless tool. If spending $1,300 on a third-party riveter is a cost that 6672 feels they can bear, then yes, that is the most convenient option. replace all of their DeWalt 20V tools with a cordless tool system that includes a riveter. buy a third-party cordless riveter that uses DeWalt 20V batteries, orĥ. not buy a cordless riveter, and continue using hand riveters in the pits,Ĥ. hack a different brand of cordless riveter to work with DeWalt 20V batteries,ģ. buy the Milwaukee 12V riveter and use it as intended,Ģ. For them, standardizing on one battery type for power tools means they would:ġ. They have DeWalt 20V tools, and DeWalt does not make a cordless riveter for this battery system. The problem here is that team 6672 ( team) is faced with this choice. Tl:dr, I know it’s money/hassle to get M12 products when you’re already invested into a system, but please don’t play around with tool batteries if you don’t know what you’re doing. Tool batteries can be dangerous if they’re abused, there’s a ton of energy jammed into them, so you really really need to be aware of the very real fire risk that comes from messing with battery systems. Using any converter between brands interrupts all the smarts we put into these systems, and it can be a pretty big safety concern, and it can also damage your batteries if you aren’t careful. First, you basically bypass a lot of voltage cutoff safety stuff, most tool batteries are pretty dumb, and need their tools to help them know when they’re too hot/overloaded/running out of power. Hi, actual Milwaukee Tool battery electrical engineer hereĬan you jam some metal against the +/- terminals of an M12 tool and hook up a converted voltage 20v pack to it? Probably, but there are some big concerns with doing this. Cuts some wired tools out of the collection, and the Milwaukee versions were already better. I use this mainly for the m12 compact inflator and cordless vacuum in my car (on a 20A cigarette lighter port). This is actually pretty useful, as you can now use an FRC battery, cigarette lighter port, etc to power m12 tools. You basically have to gut an M12 battery and connectorize an input to that shell. I actually do some of this kinda weird stuff for my own M12 tools (I have enough adapters to jump a car and run RC vehicles off of M12 if necessary) but the trickiest part is making an input adapter. I doubt the riveter needs that, but it’s likely more than 5A of your smaller buck converter. Technical issues if you’re hell-bent on a very bulky but potentially slightly convenient solution: M12 batteries can supply something like 30A at peak (depending on the specific cells and configuration) and some tools need that. (this is coming from the guy who was literally watercooling the 3d printer motors so we could run them faster and harder)įor what it’s worth, 330 ran the M12 right angle drill with the rest of our Ryobi stuff fine for years, just gotta make sure the batteries get back on the charger. If I suggested this at work I’d be laughed at. Comparing the $70 in COTS parts to, say 10 hours in student labor (already over $70) and something that doesn’t have easy warranty claims shows you more of the picture there. You can pick up 2ah M12 batteries for like $20 each and a charger for $15 last I checked. Overall yes, it’s frankly a waste of time and money for a very small “benefit” (even in an FRC team’s means).
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